All it takes is the smallest misstep for eggs to go from glossy, fluffy, and wobbly to tough, dry curds.
We wanted to nail down an approach to foolproof, fluffy, tender scrambled eggs.
Our first step was determining which dairy was best in our scrambled egg recipe. Eggs made with milk were prone to weeping, while those made with heavy cream were too dense. Half-and-half fared best, and produced eggs that were decently puffed and stable. Dairy has a tendency to muddle eggs’ fresh flavor, so we added extra yolks to the mix, which yielded richer results.
We then moved on to the cooking method. We knew that low heat would prevent the eggs from overcooking, but we also needed higher heat to produce the steam needed to create nicely puffed curds. We came up with a solution: a combination of high and low heat. We melted butter in a smaller skillet-which kept the eggs in a thicker layer, thereby producing larger curds-and added the salted eggs (adding salt to raw eggs makes for more-tender curds), constantly scraping the bottom and sides of the skillet. As soon as our spatula could leave a trail in the pan with minimal raw egg filling it in, we dropped the heat to low and switched to a gentle folding motion to keep from breaking up the large curds. When the eggs looked cooked through but still glossy, we slid them onto a plate to stop the cooking process.